Rioja in Northern Spain is perhaps the country‘s most famous wine producing area, located in the province of the same name. The region has a centuries old tradition of wine making. With the arrival of French merchants in the late 19th century, Rojas’ name really took off, as the area gained expertise from Bordelaise winemakers, including their use of small oak barrels.

The wine region is divided into 3 vine growing areas, all producing rather different wines. In Rioja Baja, the Granacha grape variety thrives in warm, relatively low altitudes. Then there are the higher, cooler districts of Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, where the Tempranillo and Graciano grapes flourish. The majority of Riojas are red but some white are made too, the main white grape varieties are Viura and Malvasía. 

This is slowly becoming a modern wine region too; an increased proportion of wine producers follow organic methods, and some extremely successful natural wines are being produced. Some vintners take a holistic approach to land management, called regenerative agriculture. It abstains from some conventional farming techniques and taps into composting and pollinator habitat restoration to encourage nutrient-dense soil. These practices aim to curb carbon emissions. Additionally, many wineries have been moving away from extensive oak barrel use, and ”village wines” and ”singular vineyards” wines have emerged.  Last but not least, quite a few wineries are decidedly modern too in terms of the architecture of their bodegas.

When it comes to local gastronomy, this wine region has many simple but delicious treats. Rioja’s classic dishes include slow-roasted lamb over vine prunings and conjonudo (chorizo with egg and red pepper served on bread). Another staple is minestra de verduras, sautéed local spring vegetables mixed with diced serrano ham. Cooking here is mostly traditional and but young chefs have moved in and brought innovation, striking a balance between classic and modern cuisine.

Rioja has some beautiful towns and villages. Places like Laguardia, Briones and Cenicero are charming historic hilltop settlements, overlooking the wide expanses of vineyards and forests, with high mountains as a dramatic backdrop. Logroño is Rioja’s capital and a very pleasant place, with a charming old town, the epicentre of a busy tapas scene. Also worth a detour is the town of Haro in Rioja Alta. This is lively and charming place and a historic wine town: in the 19th century Haro had become one of the most important wine cities in Spain, as many companies established their bodegas in or around the town.