The Castilla y León province, north of Madrid is considered the heartland of Spain. During the 15th century the rulers of Castilla y León were the driving force for the unification with other regions, as a result Spain was created as a single political entity.

Castilla y León lies on a plateau (meseta) accentuated by forested hills, at 700-1000m above sea level. It’s surrounded by high mountains in the north with the lower land given over to growing wheat, olives, and grapes. Here one finds top wine regions like Toro, Rueda and Ribera del Duero. In particular Ribera del Duero is considered one the worlds classic red wine regions. The Duero River runs across Castilla y León and continues into Portugal. In Spain the Duero provides picturesque scenery, whilst downstream, across the border in Portugal, the landscape evolves into the grand Douro Valley wine region.

Castilla is named for is huge number of castles, mostly found close the Duero river. There are magnificent historic cities like Valladolid and Burgos – both former capital cities – as well as Zamora and Segovia. There is a wealth of notable small towns like Penafiel and Tordesillas. These places are rich in art and architecture, reminding us of the glory days of old Castilia.

The regional Castilian cuisine relies firmly on roasted meats. The main roles are for the suckling pig cochinillo, and the lamb lechazo throughout most of Ribera del Duero. Cured hams, spicy sausages and a diverse set of cheese varieties are excellent. Classic eateries offer rustic breads, bean dishes and hearty soups or stews given extra flavour by local embutidos (cured meats). There is innovation too, with modern chefs giving traditional recipes a new twist.  Always there are good wines, we are in prime wine country here.

Segovia in Castilla y León is one the most alluring cities in all of Spain. We feel this is a real gem, jam-packed with charming medieval streets. The setting against mountain peaks is quite stunning.

The elegant late gothic cathedral, almost renaissance in its use of internal space is quite something as is the most unusual Alcazar. This was a town with an important Jewish community; many historic buildings are testament to that heritage. Then outside the city walls, a short taxi ride away, is the sumptuous La Granja palace, built by the 1st Bourbon king of French descent, surrounded by magnificent gardens and mountains – Versailles eat your heart out. 

Last but not least, the town is famous too for its rustic Castilian cuisine, served with excellent Ribera del Duero wines.  

The Ribera del Duero wine region is Spain’s most renowned wine region, together with Rioja. The high quality of the predominantly red wines the region produces has been widely recognised internationally: Ribera del Duero has an enviable reputation as a producer of extraordinary red wines.

Wine has been made here since Roman times, peaking in the late middle ages when Monastic orders dominated viticulture. Monasteries provided accommodation and food and drink to pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela. Today, just like in the past, Tempranillo is the predominant grape variety. Tempranillo wines tend to be bold and strong, with high alcohol, and assertive flavours of dark cherry and black berries. Usually they have great aging potential. The most common white grape variety is called Albillo Mayor. Only now, guided by expert and adventurous winemakers are albillo monovarietal wines getting some attention.

Few food and wine pairings can top a delicious Ribera del Duero red and the local signature dish: suckling lamb (lechazo). The origins of the dining on lamb tradition can be traced back to the 12^th century, when Jewish people, escaping the Moorish occupation down South, fled north to the Christian kingdoms. With them came the Passover lamb that, following Jewish traditions, it is still eaten at local assadores restaurants, often with a salad.

Following the undulating Duero river downstream along vast Castile, the Duero and its tributaries reach its shallowest form in the direction of the Portuguese border. Historical towns like Valladolid, Tordesillas and Zamora were settled here on the banks of the Duero river. The wine regions between Zamora and Valladolid have long history of viticulture dating back to medieval times. The small Cigales region has been making a comeback with its ‘’rosado’’ (rosé), no longer an afterthought for winemakers. However Toro and Rueda are those regions which have deservedly become internationally famous.

Scenic Rueda, tucked into a landscape of castes and medieval towns, is now one Spain’s most important white wine regions. Today wines made with the Verdejo grape are fresh and aromatic, with herby citrus notes that sometimes bring a classy Sauvignon Blanc to mind.

The Toro wine region along the Duero river has evolved into a red wine power player. Here dense and potent but still elegant reds are produced with the local Tinta de Toro grape, a clone of tempranillo. The best wine grapes are cultivated in stony gravel vineyards. Star winemakers of French origin made a splash here, like the Lurton brothers and Michel Rolland. Famous Spanish brands like Vega Sicilia are also active in this region of muscular wines.

The last town before the Duero river enters Portugal and becomes the Douro is Zamora. We feel it’s an outstanding and charming reminder of the glory days of old Castile. Zamora is unspoiled and beautiful, offering a spectacular medieval core and the old fashioned atmosphere of a typical Castilian town away from the crowds.  Walking the lovely streets and squares is delightful. The hilltop cathedral is a gem, with remarkable Hispanic medieval art inside. A cathedral museum with stunning Flemish tapestries adds to the delights. However, the place is not stuck in time. Once the sun sets the old town gets very lively when the town’s residents come out for evening strolls in the squares and streets.

Close to the town the famous Zamorano cheese is produced. This is a hard raw sheep’s milk cheese made close Zamora, with a yellow colour and crumbly texture. This sweet and savoury cheese is commonly served as a tapa with white or red wine. Included in our tour is a visit to a top local producer.

As one drives west towards Portugal, the landscape becomes increasingly rugged.  The Duero becomes the Douro, flowing through an impressive barren gorge. But then, once you reach Barca de Alva, the first Portuguese town after Spanish border, the landscape becomes softer again, more domesticated. The river seems to slow down, dramatic cliffs are being replaced by steep river banks dotted with olive groves and vineyards. This is Douro Superior, one of the three sub-regions of the fabled Douro Valley wine region. It offers a tapestry of rare natural beauty, arguably one of the most beautiful wine landscapes in the world – deservedly part of the UNESCO World Heritage network.

Just like in Spain, Romans were the first to plant grapes in the Douro Valley. However, only in the 17^th century wine production came into its own, following frequent wars between England and France. As a result English merchants were encouraged to procure wines away from France, with Douro’s fortified port wine a major beneficiary. Whilst Douro is indeed historically famous as the producer of port wines, for the last 15 years some of Europe’s best unfortified table wines have also been made here. The best wine estates make both port and table wines and, in a few instances, the estate owners take their table wines more seriously than their port wines.

The most sought-after vineyards are the older ones. Tradition has taught the farmers that only by planting different grape varieties in a ‘’field blend’’, the special complexity of the best Douro wines be achieved. It is common to find many grape varieties in the same plot: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (known as Tempranillo in Spain), Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Bastardo, Mourisco tinto, and Tinta Amarela. There is a real air of excitement in the Douro valley about its extraordinary terrain’s ability to express itself in such a diverse range of wines. Various French winemakers have been moving in, buying vineyards or setting up joint ventures with local estates. Leading wine magazines like Decanter and Wine Spectator have given high marks to various Douro wines.  And matters green like organic wine and sustainability have been becoming increasingly important.

Our wine tour ends in the handsome old city of Porto, set on the banks of the Douro River. Here in Porto the 900km journey of the Douro (Duero in Spain) comes to an end. There is much to see in this charming city; a large UNESCO heritage listed historic center is largely intact. Well executed renovations have brought downtown back to life, inviting both local and tourist alike to take advantage of the many nooks “recantos” Porto has to offer. Viewpoints with stunning vistas and relaxing esplanades are also aplenty.

The city, adorned with some grandiose baroque monuments and outstanding art galleries like the Serralves museum, offers striking modern architecture as well – star architect Rem Koolhaas’ stunning concert hall Casa de Música is a case in point. For centuries, Porto has been the center of the port wine trade; historic port lodges abound in the Gaia district of the city, where one can enjoy tasting port wines in various styles.

As in any good wine growing culture, excellent food is also prevalent in Douro and Porto. Classic seafood dishes such as polvo a lagareiro (octopus with baked potatoes), seabass with asparagus, John Dory with tomato rice, or meat dishes like succulent roast kid and slow cooked porco Bísaro (pork from pigs fed only on chestnuts) served with grilled forest mushrooms, are being revisited with originality and finesse.