Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, enchants its visitors with its laid-back but seductive culture. On the one hand this is a metropolis with a large array of imposing squares and grand buildings. On the other hand, the majority of the individual neighbourhoods have each kept their own village-like character. If you stray off the tourist track, then the city becomes a trove of unexpected treasures.

When exploring this city it is best to fall into its Mediterranean-like rhythm, which is regularly peppered with African and Latin American influences. We should also mention the city’s beautiful location being situated on and around seven hills, at the mouth of the river Tagus (Tejo). It’s up and down layout provides a wealth of lovely viewing points, called ‘’miradouros’’.

The Portuguese capital has always been one of the best places in Europe for seafood, however, it was not until fairly recently that one can eat in chic modern surroundings. Nowadays restaurants range from the old-fashioned to the trendy and stylish – in the latter category a younger generation of chefs has become celebrated for inventive Portuguese cuisine. Some of these restaurants even offer really good natural wines from wine regions close to the city. It’s a breath of fresh air.

The Alentejo, east and south of Lisbon, offers great scenic beauty with its rolling countryside full of cork oaks, olive trees and vines. The hills, sometimes small mountains, are frequently crowned by mighty castles. Notwithstanding its appeal, the Alentejo remains pristine; it has not been discovered by mass tourism. The landscape is bucolic, the people are hospitable and there is charming cultural heritage – it is full of lovely historical towns like Marvão, Estremoz, Portalegre, Vila Viçosa, Monsarraz and Évora.

That said, contemporary wineries and art centres and discreetly modern upscale places to stay have been emerging, which provide a sense of exhilaration in this rural landscape. We think the Alentejo is one of the last secret treasures for travellers exploring the unspoiled cultures of Europe.

In terms of food do not miss the local gaspachos, carne de porco à Alentejano (pork and clams cooked together), hearty duck pies, legs of lamb with rosemary or grilled John Dory with tomato rice. It’s a rural cuisine, with contemporary touches these days. The red wine here is some of Portugal’s best, with the body and ripeness of Southern Rhone Valley wines. Grape varieties commonly used here are Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet and  Aragonez, better-known abroad as Tempranillo. In contrast, the whites tend to be fresh but very aromatic, often made with Roupeiro and Antão Vaz. 

Andalusia is the second-largest and most southern of Spain’s 17 provinces. Here the land offers the visitor a spectacular diversity of terrain: snow-topped sierras, high-mountain deserts, great beaches and a fascinating system of micro cuisines. Cities like Seville and Granada, are strikingly beautiful and atmospheric, deservedly famous for their grand architecture. Then there are lovely smaller towns, like Aracena and Jerez de la Frontera, which offer a large number of glorious fortified palaces and churches.

The cuisine is famed for its tapas, like those of mountain cured hams. Fish like sardines and anchovies, often fried, are established favourites too. Then there is seasonal game of wild boar and venison. Kid, partridge and hare are local delicacies. Excellent olive oils are produced in abundance.

The principal wines of Andalucía are fortified wines, in particular pale, dry sherries like Manzanilla and Fino, great with tapas, but also excellent as an aperitif. Sherry comes from the Sherry Triangle between Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlucar de Barrameda and Puerto de Santa Maria. There are very good still wines too, like those from the Montilla region close to Cordoba.

The scenic land of the Sierra de Aracena situated between Portugal’s Alentejo and Seville is very much worth exploring. The Sierra is a splendid natural reserve, dotted with charming hillside villages. The lovely medieval town of Aracena is a distinct highlight. This is jamon (ham) country, where some of the best Spanish hams are produced, taking advantage of the dry mountain air for curing.

A drive through the beautiful Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche Natural Park will take you through vast oak and chestnut forests – rather unexpected so far south. Driving through the winding roads is best enjoyed leisurely, with the occasional stop to savour the spectacular landscape. Once you arrive in Aracena you will find that the locals are welcoming and that the town is superbly charming. Overseen by the remains of a Moorish citadel, the town centre is easily walkable and quite vibrant: with local markets, plenty of small businesses and quiet squares that come to life in the late hours of the afternoon.

In Aracena the Ibérico ham, the beluga caviar of the porcine world, is produced. The best Iberian pork ham comes from the surrounding villages in the Sierra, including the coveted jamon de bellota, from acorn-fed pigs. During the drive towards the town it is likely that you pass by a dehesa: a rolling park-like land were the black Iberian pigs roam free to feed on acorns. It’s a constant feature of this region. The beauty of these pasture lands is a real treat of nature. Some of the best dehesas are a well-kept secret – the finest and most delicious jamon, salchichón (sausage) and morcilla (blood sausage) come from pigs grazing here.

When it comes to the local wines you will not be disappointed. From the fresh fruity whites, made of the local grape variety Zalema, to the oddly satisfying “vino naranja” – a white wine macerated with oranges and aged in oak barrels for at least two years. A delightful pairing for a starter or dessert today, these local wines have been making a comeback after years of neglect.

Heading south, it is a lovely drive you to Jerez de la Frontera, the unofficial capital of the Sherry wine producing region. As one approaches the town one can spot the seamlessly endless rows of vineyards touching the road. But Jerez has more strings to its bow than just wine. This is an elegant town, with an exceptionally beautiful Alcazar, a restored Moorish fortress surrounded by jacaranda trees that stand imposingly on the top of a hill. The old town is well kept, strolling along lovely bougainvillea-lined houses is a discreet delight.

Unique for the Sherry Triangle, with Jerez as its centre of gravity, is the presence of an indigenous yeast called “Flor”, that forms on top of sherry wines. This yeast, the white chalk soils and the solera maturation system, are considered the ‘magical’ elements’ that make sherry production unique to this area. And then there are the bodegas of the sherry houses that pop-up spectacularly in the centre of the town, frequently with a cathedral-like semblance. In these bodegas Sherry wines are stored, in spaces with longitudinal aisles divided by arches, and thin pillars supporting high ceilings and white washed walls. Here maturation takes place, with a unique solera system using a large number of casks and fractional blending.

In the hills around the Sherry Triangle 3 main grape varieties are planted: Palomino Fino, Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel Alejandria. Various types of Sherry are made from these grapes: fino, medium dry, oloroso and reserva sherries; the sweetness profile may range from bone dry to intensely sweet, but quality and depth of flavour is unmistakable. Around the town you can’t find a bar where tapas are not drunk with a glass of one of the home-grown sherry wine varieties. Locally ordered in half-bottles they are great matches for a wide range of food. We feel food friendly sherry’s should be drunk over dinner or lunch not just as an aperitif or dessert wine.

Beyond Jerez, hilltop white villages may lure you with traditional charm and modern art, by the likes of Olafur Eliasson at the NMAC sculpture garden for example.

The majestic city of Seville in southern Andalusia offers the discerning visitors a stunning list of grand sites and hidden gems. Built up over time along the banks of the Guadalquivir river, its occupants, from Moorish to Romans to Christians, have left a remarkable footprint. Think of the deservedly famous Real Alcazar, built in the XI Century under Muslim rule and later remodelled by Christian kings. On a contemporary note, the Metropol Parasol, inaugurated in 2011 is striking.  It is an exotic structure, with 150 meters length in plywood, initially unloved, but now grown in the heart of the locals and foreigners alike – thanks to the bars and restaurants it guards but also by the elevated walkways that offer fabulous views of the city. This is also a city of narrow, cobbled streets and lovely courtyards filled with fountains, tropical plants and colourful tiles. There are many hidden gems to discover. Like stumbling on medieval working monasteries, where nuns sell local sweets based on ancient recipes.

Across the river Guadalquivir, is Triana, where one may enjoy discovering rather different neighbourhood of Seville – quarters for those who did not fit in with the wealthy society living inside the walls of Seville; this was the safe shelter of flamboyant flamenco dancers, gypsies and bullfighters. Today it is again a thriving place, recently reenergised by funky restaurants and shop openings in this less touristy part of Seville.